surfing

I wish I went more often. Some people don't get the appeal. And I guess I can understand that. Everyone has their own reasons why they love it. For me, I feel more alive when I'm in the ocean. Even though I'm a terrible surfer and get my ass kicked every time I go, I would never stop going. The thought of being in the ocean, what that really means, puts things into perspective. I see the ocean on a map and its just this thing. It doesn't really mean anything. But when I'm in the ocean, I feel so small and insignificant. I know that seems like it would be a bad thing, but for me, it gives me a sense of the vastness of the planet. It's a really surreal feeling actually. And I love it. When I look out and I see nothing but the sky meeting the ocean, I feel free. And the waves. When they crash over me and I get pulled along, rolling in the wave and being tossed around like I'm weightless, feeling the strength and power of the water, I feel a connection. I feel like the wave is this real thing, carrying me along and my life is totally under it's control. I am overcome with a sense of respect, and awe. Have you ever dove under a wave just as it was crashing, and you can feel it rolling over you? It is a feeling unlike any other. And I crave it. I never feel more alive or more at peace than when I am in the ocean. The freezing cold Atlantic ocean. It feels like home.